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Zoe Williams at Ciaccia Levi, Paris

If Paris' contemporary art scene can be summarised in a single word, it might be: understated. This remains the case despite my visit during Paris Art Week, during which the global art crew descends upon the French capital for arts and culture, on the occasion of the Instagram content haul-cum-contemporary art sales convention, Art Basel Paris. What this means for the city's galleries is that for this week in October, they have a particularly warm, attentive audience (some telling graffiti in the 11th arrondissement read: "Refugees Welcome. Go Home Fashion Tourists". I'm not enough of an egomaniac to exclude myself from the latter group). Most galleries have extended opening hours during this time (with most closing at 7pm as standard, living up to the general Parisian lifestyle choice of not closing every non-essential business at 5 or 6pm. London and the rest of the UK, take note). The whole rigmarole can become quite exhausting and, dare I say, monotonous if on

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